Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Sapa becomes Heaven on Earth during Tet

Both local and international tourists were dazzled when they witnessed miraculous sights in the Sapa tourism town in Lao Cai northern province during the first days of the lunar New Year of the cat.

Locals told Tuoi Tre that these picturesque scenes only appear on sunny days in Sapa, which was recently hit by a prolonged cold spell as temperatures dropped to minus 4 degrees Celsius.

Sapa is most beautiful in spring. Apricot, plum and cherry flowers are splendidly beautiful.

Markets are crowded and joyous, and are especially attractive to visitors. Minority groups come here to exchange and trade goods.

Following is a series of photos depicting Sapa’s fantastic landscape during two first days of the lunar New Year of the Cat:

Sapa

Sapa

 Sapa

Sapa

Sapa

Sapa

 Sapa

Sa Pa is one of Vietnam 's top holiday and relaxation destinations at the height of 1,600m above sea level. The average temperature of the area is 15-18°C. It is cool in summer and cold in winter. Visitors to Sa Pa in the summer can feel the climate of four seasons in just one day.

The best time to witness the scenic beauty of Sapa is in April and May. Before that period, the weather might be cold and foggy; after that period is the rainy season.

In April and May, Sapa is blooming with flowers and green pastures. The clouds that settle in the valley in early morning quickly disappear into thin air.

Sapa has many natural sites such as Ham Rong Mountain, Silver Waterfall, Rattan Bridge, Bamboo Forest and Ta Phin Cave.

Sa Pa is also the starting point for many climbers and scientists who want to reach the top of Fansipan Mountain, the highest mountain in Vietnam at 3,143m.

Fansipan is part of the Hoang Lien Mountain Range, also called the Alps of the North Sea area since Fansipan is not only the highest peak in Vietnam, but also in the Indochina Peninsula.

The pyramid-shaped mountain is covered with clouds all year round and temperatures often drop below zero, especially at high elevations.

Sapa is home to various families of flowers of captivating colours, which can be found nowhere else in the country.

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When the body is a work of art

Body painting, a favorite art in Japan, South Korea, Singapore, and Australia, is slowly asserting its official status in conservative Vietnam after the art was debuted less than a year ago at the Hanoi-based French cultural center L’Espace.

It was only in March last year when nude or semi-nude models had their bodies painted with various patterns and colors to be presented to the public eye.

One month later, another official public display of body painting was held at an exhibition center at No 16 Ngo Quyen Street in Hanoi.

Previously, body painting events had been organized on a pilot and informal basis behind half-closed doors.

Despite its official status now, the art is yet to make its way into art school curricula in the nation, while artists performing the art are either amateurs or self-learners from documents on Internet.

Now, all exhibitions are held at places with limited entrance like a small gallery or a bar accommodating no more than 20 people.

Meanwhile, there are not that many body painting artists and they can be listed as Ngo Luc, Phuong Vu Manh, Dao Anh Khanh, Truong Tan, Bui Cong Khanh and Nhu Huy.

A local artist admitted that body painting in Vietnam is just in its embryonic period of development but will grow as lovers of the art are forming forums and clubs with an open-minded outlook.

Artist Phuong Vu Manh, 42, from Hanoi said he has organized over 30 shows of body painting to rave reviews from fans. Another artist Ngo Luc, 32, from Ho Chi Minh City has presented some 15.

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A pattern created by artist Ngo Luc on model Kim Ngan

Recently, more and more young girls are willing to display their bare backs and hands painted with different colors and patterns as a way of self-assertion, according to Luc.

Body painting started in the 1930s but a strong revival took place in Western society in the 1960s, in part prompted by the liberalization of social mores regarding nudity.
Many World Body Painting Festivals have been held across the world for decades.

Nowadays, it is a favorite art in Japan, South Korea, Singapore, and Australia.

Followings are some other images of body painting by artist Ngo Luc:

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Patterns on nude body of model Vinh Nghi

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 luc-hanh quyen 1

And on nude body of model Hanh Quyen

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Model Lam Uyen

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Thousands gather for Dong Da fest

Thousands flocked to the Dong Da festival in Hanoi, aimed at marking the 222nd anniversary of the Ngoc Hoi-Dong Da victory.

This year’s fest will feature thurification and palanquin rituals with the participation of delegations from the capital’s districts of Thanh Tri and Thuong Tin and from Binh Dinh province.

The event is to commemorate the glorious feat of arms led by King Quang Trung (Nguyen Hue) against 29,000 Qing invaders in 1789.

The highlight of the program will see artists from Hanoi Traditional Opera Theatre performing an extract from the “Ngoc Han Cong Chua” play from which audience will have a chance to learn about the love between national hero Quang Trung and princess Ngoc Han.

Plays and dances re-enacting the victory will also be performed at the festival.

A series of art performances and traditional games such as dragon and gong dances, martial arts and human chess will also take place at the festival.

The victory of Ngoc Hoi-Dong Da went down in the nation’s history as an immortal epic of the struggle for national construction and defence.

The Dong Da Festival takes place annually on the 5th day of the Lunar New Year (Tet).

dong da

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Ca Tru folk music sees revival

The millennium-old northern folk music genre of Ca tru is making a comeback after decades of neglect, with more and more young girls training to become dao nuong, or professional singers.

The music is said to have originated in Hanoi during the Ly Dynasty era around 1,000 years ago, mainly to entertain the royal court just like many other Vietnamese arts.

With the unwritten rule that only young, beautiful girls could become dao nuong, things took a nasty turn in the 20th century when mandarins and high-profile officials began to prey on them.

A stigma soon set in and “good” young girls were no longer taking up Ca tru.

The feudal system may have ended in Vietnam in 1945 but the shame persisted until recently.

It took UNESCO’s conferring of the status of an intangible cultural heritage in need of urgent safeguarding in 2009 for the stigma to be shed and a revival to begin.

It takes years for a young girl to master control over rhythms and tones and become a Ca tru vocalist. It is usually performed as an ensemble with at least two more performers on a ceremonial drum and a dan day, the three-stringed lute.

The most illustrious dao nuong of the 20th century and renowned to this day despite her death 10 years ago was Quach Thi Ho.

Ho is cherished not only for talent but also her great love for and her sacrifice for Ca tru.

During the difficult period in the 20th century, Ho remained steadfast and continued to sing despite being scorned by neighbors.

One of her closest friends is Prof Dr Tran Van Khe, who recorded some of her music in 1976 to take Vietnamese folk music to the outside world.

Two years later, UNESCO and the International Institute for Comparative Music Studies and Documentation awarded Ho an honorary credential for her contribution to preserving traditional music.

In 1988 the recordings won the top prize at an international traditional music festival in North Korea attended by 29 nations. The same year the Vietnamese government conferred on her the title of People’s Artist, the only Ca tru artist to be thus honored.

Despite fearing the possible extinction of the art form, Ho was hesitant to teach it due to the social prejudices.

Once when writer Luu Trong Van asked her why she refused to teach it, she replied: “Who is willing to learn it? And learn for what?

“A high-profile cultural official told me bluntly that my Ca tru mainly served feudalists and colonialists.

“Let a tree dying out die out,” she quoted him as telling her.

“You just wait to see its flowers blossom,” she replied.

One family

The ancient folk music has been well preserved by at least a family of Nguyen of Hanoi’s Thai Ha, a place with a rich Ca tru tradition.

The family, known commonly as Nguyen Thai Ha, produced many famous singers and three-stringed lute players who performed in royal courts - such as Nguyen Duc Y, Nguyen Van Xuan, and Nguyen Thi Tuyet.

 dao nuong 2

Nguyen Thi Tuyet - one of the Ca tru masters of the Nguyen - Thai Ha family

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Flower road closes, receives 800,000 visits

Nearly 800,000 people visited the flower-bedecked Nguyen Hue Street in downtown Ho Chi Minh City during the seven days the flower show was open to the public.

It was closed at 10pm yesterday – the fourth day of the lunar new year with a street performance.

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Over 100,000 people visited the Road yesterday

Tran Hung Viet, deputy director of Saigontourist and chief organizer of the flower show, told Tuoi Tre that on New Year's Eve, more than 100,000 people visited the road and enjoyed a fireworks display there.

Currently, hundreds of workers are cleaning up to return the Nguyen Hue road to normalcy. The job is expected to be finished by 6pm today.

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A performance on Le Loi Road to conclude the flower show

This time, the flower festival was themed “New Heights” during the Year of the Cat.

It was divided into various segments this year like “Vietnamese Spirit,” “southern Tet holiday,” “New Heights,” “Peaceful Spring,” “Time of the Season,” and “Humane Garden.”

Under the segment themed “southern Tet holiday” from Le Loi to Nguyen Thiep Streets, organizers created a festive atmosphere using traditional Tet images like the cylindrical glutinous rice cake, watermelon, and flowers with a pair of happy wooden cats.

“New Heights” from Nguyen Thiep to Huynh Thuc Khang Streets was decorated with garlands, multi-colored lanterns, kites, and bamboo flowers, all symbols of the country’s unity and development.

Orchids, stylized lotus petals, baskets of flowers, small boats of flowers, a house of roses and others featured in “Peaceful spring” between Huynh Thuc Khang and Ngo Duc Ke Streets.

“Time of the season” from Ngo Duc Ke to Hai Trieu featured rice paddies, ceramic flowerpots, Tet-themed paintings, and cards.

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A foreign tourist posing with two performers walking on stilts during a performance yesterday

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Sunday, February 6, 2011

Hanoi through eyes of French photographer

If he had more time, Nicolas Cornet, a French photo-journalist would have talked more about Hanoi both in French and Vietnamese. However, he prefers to use his photos to tell his stories.

Cornet said he has closely followed the changes in people and Hanoi through his own photo journalism. That is why when visiting an exhibition showcasing Cornet’s photos of Hanoi at the French Culture Centre L’Espace in late 2010, many people who were born and grew up in the city suddenly recognised scenes they had taken for granted for a long time.

Hanoi in his photos is not merely a reminiscence, but is always moving. Viewers can see the city through photos portraying people’s daily lives, high-rise buildings or ancient, moss covered pagodas.

“His photos are unexpectedly lively,” a common comment made by many visitors. For them, Cornet’s photos are beautiful, not only in terms of lay-out and colour, but also of containing the city’s flavours such as steamed glutinous rice and green tea that are served on the city’s pavement kiosks.

After three years of collecting images and ideas, Cornet has published a pictorial book about Hanoi to celebrate the city’s 1,000 th anniversary.

Since 1987, Nicolas Cornet has spent a couple of months each year returning to Vietnam and feels it is his “home country”.

Besides working for many of Europe ’s well-known daily newspapers and magazines such as L’Espresso, Mare, Le Republica, Figaro Magazine, Le Monde, Ulysse, Geo, Grands Reportages and Nouvel Observateur, Cornet has given lectures on photography and press photography. He has already hosted a series of personal exhibitions in France, Germany, Switzerland and Vietnam.
 

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In slow motion

Gillian (names changed), 37, mother of two finds herself constantly tired, despite her daily workouts at the gym, twice a week swims and yoga once a week. “I’m a stay-at-home mother with a busier life than when I was working and had no help in Sydney.”

Russell, thirtysomething, works in sales and has a busy social life, which he can’t seem to extract himself from—and he knows he has to, “for the sake of my liver”, he says with a chuckle.

Sarah says she is always on the go, despite seemingly easier work hours as a teacher and two-day weekend. “I have a lot more work-stuff to do and because I don’t want to turn into a homebody, I find myself stretched too thin socially.”

Andrew, 26, a recent resident of Saigon and banker, finds himself in front of the TV most nights of the week, watching the latest episodes of his favourite shows, a beer and take-away his sources of solace and comfort—because he’s just too exhausted.

There are scores of similar stories echoing the same sentiment: busy lives depleting peoples’ energy levels and/or increasing stress and frustration. These stories occur every day, in every city, including HCM City and break many myths associated with the notion that life in Southeast Asia is an easier one, relatively stress free given the comforts of household help and cheaper cost of living.

Nothing could be further from the truth.

That is what long-time expat and general director of Family Medical Practice Dr Rafi Kot says. Everyone is smart enough to understand the importance of slowing down but realising it is difficult. He cites an example of spontaneous activity, and how they often tend to leave lasting impressions. “Here, it’s not so easy to get up and go somewhere or do something.”

There are many challenges to living in a foreign country, from learning new languages and social mores to simpler tasks like adjusting to traffic. However, Dr Kot believes HCM City throws greater challenges than for example, Hanoi nationally and even Phnom Penh and Bangkok regionally, because of its lack of space—and therefore places to escape to. (Despite its cosmopolitan nature, Bangkok has many public parks he says.)

“One of the easiest ways to slow down,” he says, “is to walk your dog, but can one do that in a leisurely manner here? Hanoi is a bustling cosmopolitan but it has parks and its lakes bring serenity; I can’t advise patients to go for a walk in the park here so am forced to tell them to get away for a weekend—a change of environment usually does wonders for a short period. And I don’t mean going away to Phan Thiet because if your experience is going to be affected by complaints of the ride there and back or the traffic en route, it defeats the purpose of getting away. I advise people to look into low-cost carriers and get away to Hong Kong or a place that is opposite of here [to wind down].”

Inevitably, stress takes a toll on one’s body. Ailments can take the shape of sleeping disorders, digestive issues, mild to chronic pains, respiratory problems (brought on by air pollution) to more serious diseases. In the good news, despite the seemingly psychosomatic-related ailments present, people in Vietnam aren’t popping muscle relaxants, sleeping pills or pills meant for psychiatric issues. Dr Kot adds that the drug manufacturing company for one such popular drug in the west recalled its product because there was no market here.

In a world where the number of drugs being created in the mental health industry is rising, this is certainly cheer-worthy. As is peoples’ desire to take time out for themselves, to care for their minds and bodies—as evidenced, for example, by more yoga options in the city. Yoga is a no-brainer example of slow activity that’s good for your body and mind. Its meditative aspect discourages mind-wandering and/or idleness, which are common side effects of busy lives dominated by technology or addiction to social media.

Yoga living

Michelle Lloyd has been teaching yoga for three years and talks about its therapeutic values and how this ancient, gentle exercise, which incorporates meditation, is essentially about slowing down. On a personal level, she has seen its benefits on herself, from when she began practicing to teaching it. “It has had a huge impact on my relationships and I find myself able to interact with people better; I’m not so quick to react, but rather pause, breathe and respond,” she says citing one example, adding that watching it have a beneficial impact on her students brings her much joy. “I have seen it transform people in a very positive manner. They may come in to practice yoga because they want to lose weight but over time they find that the practice provides a much more profound and wholesome effect on their physical, spiritual and mental health. This is what keeps them coming back to their practice.”

I ask whether the mushrooming of yoga outlets in HCM City is indicative of a demand for more places where people can go to switch gears. She thinks so and adds that such spaces encourage one to “turn down the volume of your internal dialogue, chatter and tune into the breath.” She stresses that yoga allows people to connect with themselves for the time they practice it which in turns gives them a moment’s of silence, peace—“whether that moment is five minutes or the entire yoga session,” she adds. “Coming to a studio to practice provides the environment where people can learn how to slow down and enjoy peace of mind, methods which can be taken with them when they leave the yoga mat and go about their daily lives. Bringing awareness to your breath throughout the day, five minutes at your desk, for a taxi ride, whatever... That also is a huge part of the yoga practice.”

Slow food, slow pleasure

The importance of eating well—and slowly—cannot be stressed enough. Again, it is a fact we are all too aware of but find difficult to implement. While Vietnam may not be beset by the scourge of fast food, or reliance on processed convenience food, and meals are fairly healthy (and for some of lucky ones, prepared by staff) slow food isn’t just about a meal that is leisurely prepared. The slow food movement began in 1989 by Falco Portinari as a reaction to fast food and the damages it would cause to the body and eating culture. He propagates the ideology that taste must be developed, not denigrated as is wont to happen on reliance to fast food. “We are enslaved by speed and have all succumbed to the same insidious virus: Fast Life, which disrupts our habits, pervades the privacy of our homes and forces us to eat fast foods,” he writes on his website.

Granted that eating fresh healthy food, which is fairly in abundance here in its fruit and vegetables, is paramount but so is eating it in a leisurely manner, on the table (not in front of the TV), amongst friends and family. Slow eating (i.e. chewing longer) encourages better digestion. It also gives moment to pause and reflect, or enjoy instead of the frenzy that eating in a rushed manner while thinking of the task(s) ahead.
Studies have also shown that eating slowly can lead to weight loss without you doing anything—in one study it stated that you could lose up to 20 pounds a year without altering your diet or exercise regimen by eating slowly as it takes 20 minutes for the brain to recognise that it’s full.

The pleasures of slow dining are catching on with the resurgence of the slow cooker, and contrary to popular opinion in the 1970s, they do not strip food of flavour. A recent article in the Guardian talked about there being 864 titles on Amazon’s site dedicated to recipes for slow cookers.

Nice and slow

Joanne, 30-something, talks about how much of a difference daily dinner with the family, gadget free, on the table with proper china and silverware, has made on their relationship. “My husband and I actually know what is going on in our teenagers’ lives. It’s not just about their activities or everyone’s social lives and who needs the driver when; we really do talk over the table about holidays we want to take, news back home and even gossip about the neighbours,” she says with a laugh, adding that sometimes the obvious solution (i.e. family dinner) can evade you.

William Shakespeare summed it up well when he wrote: “Wisely, and slow. They stumble that run fast.” As we usher in 2011, and make notes about resolutions we hope not to break, take a moment to reflect on how you can incorporate slow into your life —and how it will enhance your life.

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