As Tet (Lunar New Year festival) is in the air, discover some places of choice of the Saigonese when they are celebrating their traditional festival
Several years ago, the Weekly featured a photo essay one picture of which showed an expatriate was jogging right in front of the downtown Ben Thanh Market during the morning rush hour. Normally, it isn’t either the right place or the right time for that type of sport. But in this particular case, the expat could go jogging because he made it in the morning of the first day of the Lunar New Year.
Among the unusual things about Saigon during Tet is that this most populous city in Vietnam becomes unbelievably quiet and less crowded. Traditionally, Tet lasts three days, and thus the phrase ba ngày Tt (the three days of Tet) has been so common in Vietnam. In fact, Vietnamese have longer holidays for Tet. This year, State-employees, particularly those working in administrative agencies, will enjoy an eight-day Tet, the longest days off work in recent years.
HCM City is home to 7.2 million people with a family book (official registration). Nobody can state exactly the city’s transient population. But according to estimates, it is sure to surpass the 1-million level. So, where would those 8 million-plus Saigonese go during Tet because if they all stay inside Saigon, the streets will not be so deserted?
As is their custom, many Vietnamese return to their birthplace or the place where their parents live during Tet. Going back home to the provinces is therefore an intrinsic need of people who come to HCM City to work. With very few exceptions, visiting workers or temporary dwellers leave the city for their birthplaces on Tet holidays. On their same bus, railway coach or flight are also those Saigonese still feeling the urge to return to the provinces. At a guess, therefore, more than 1 million will be on their way out of the city.
Take to the streets during the few hours prior to the time the Lunar New Year arrives and you’ll see that it is the period the streets become most desolate. As a tradition, everybody has to return home to wait for New Year’s Eve. Then family members will get together before the altar in the house to worship their ancestors. Because everyone tries to get home to welcome the first moments of the New Year, very few are outside.
But this picture will change dramatically as soon as the clock strikes 12 to mark the New Year’s arrival. The streets then become crowded again, especially those streets leading to pagodas. Many Saigonese (and Vietnamese) keep the habit of visiting a pagoda immediately after midnight on New Year’s Eve, believing that their prayers at pagodas during the first hours of the New Year will bring them what they expect.
As many Saigonese come home at dawn, the whole city wakes up very late in the morning of the first day of the New Year.
Traffic is still light until nine or 10 o’clock. Those who take to the streets are on their way to pagodas where they will pray for health, wealth and luck in the new year. During the first days of the New Year, pagodas—big and small in town—are much frequented by Saigonese. The most famous names in this regard include Vinh Nghiem and Xa Loi pagodas in District 3, Tinh Xa Trung Tam in Binh Thanh District, and Nam Thien Nhat Tru in Thu Duc District, to name just a few.
As much frequented as, if not more, pagodas by Saigonese are recreational facilities and public places. Topping the list of the indispensable names is Nguyen Hue Flower Street. For the past few years, the flower street has become a brand name for HCM City in the Tet festival. During the week-long event, which is slated for Jan. 31-Feb. 6, sections of Nguyen Hue and other streets in the neighborhood will be turned into pedestrian areas. This year, flower displays and other shows and activities are expected to attract more than 1 million visitors.
Comparable to Nguyen Hue Flower Street is Tao Dan Park where Spring Flower Festival is held. The park in District 1 has established itself as a magnet to those Saigonese who seek places of fun to entertain themselves and their loved ones.
Amusement parks are also attractions to Saigonese during Tet. Suoi Tien and Dam Sen are outstanding venues. Suoi Tien Theme Park in District 9 is a favorite place for visitors, especially families with young children. During the Tet festival last year, Suoi Tien welcomed 800,000 visitors. The same number of visitors is expected this year.
What else aside from pagodas and theme parks?
A considerable number of residents in Saigon plan their tours during Tet, making the festival a peak time for tour operators. Of the domestic trips, pilgrimage tours are among the most frequently booked. Huong Pagoda on the outskirts of Hanoi, Yen Tu Pagoda in Quang Ninh Province, the Temple of Hung Kings in Phu Tho Province and Chua Ba Pagoda in An Giang Province are the favorite destinations.
Although smaller in number, some Saigonese, in particular those under forty of age, can afford overseas tours.
Saigonese holidaymakers during Tet will return home fresh and energetic to get ready for the year ahead. The first of January marks a new calendar year. But to Saigonese, and Vietnamese as well, a new bustling year starts only after Tet holidays.
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