Monday, October 11, 2010

Expat businesses reflect on Hanoi’s 1,000 birthday

Misinformation, road closures, gridlock traffic – gripes about these could be heard in the days leading up to Hanoi’s ten-day long celebration honoring the city’s 1,000th birthday.

But when Hanoi’s millennium celebration marched towards its grand finale on the 10th of October, how have the festivities affected businesses owned and managed by some of the city’s estimated 5,000 expatriates?

Business hasn’t changed much for Ipa Nima, a designer handbag boutique located on Nha Tho, a street heavily trafficked by tourists near the center of the festivities at Hoan Kiem Lake.

“Early in 2010, people were saying the 1,000 year celebration would be good for retail,” CEO of Ipa Nima Mark Lockwood said. “Have we seen that? Not necessarily. But we haven’t seen a big dip either.”

“I can say that the city looks better than I’ve ever seen it,” said Lockwood, an Australian who has lived in Hanoi for more than 10 years. “And the money invested in this event to improve infrastructure will make Hanoi better for people living and visiting here in the coming years.”

Residents have publicly questioned whether the US$67 million spent on the event was going overboard in a country facing electricity shortages, drought and now heavy flooding. But with the city center’s tangle of telephone wires put underground, streets repaved and pavements widened, the event seems to have spurred some much needed improvements to the capital city of a country that is quickly being thrust more and more onto the world stage.

In April 2010, Vietnam hosted the 16th ASEAN Summit. Immediately following the 1,000 years event, it will welcome Defence Ministers of the ASEAN nations plus eight others, including Australia, China, India, Japan, the Republic of Korea, New Zealand, Russia and the United States.

According to William Lau, General Manager of the Intercontinental Hotel Hanoi West Lake, “Both our hotel and the city have had some practice now in dealing with these high level guests and high profile events – from a city/state level, that seems to be more or less on track.”

However, the hotel, which is offering discounted room rates as part of its “Once in Thousand Years” marketing campaign, has not seen any significant change in the number of guests or length of stay during October – typically the peak month for tourism in Vietnam.

In spite of the massive effort to beautify Hanoi for the millennium event, the city does not seem to have had a high increase in international guests.

According to Lau, a native of Hong Kong who has worked in hospitality for 28 years throughout 13 countries, the fundamental procedures that make it more difficult to visit Vietnam than other Asian countries remained the same in spite of the celebration.

Lau pointed out that compared to neighboring countries like Thailand, Cambodia and Lao PDR, Vietnam’s visa procedures are somewhat challenging for tourists. A visa must be arranged in advance through an agency or consulate whereas it can be purchased upon arrival for less money with no prior arrangements in the other countries.

“An event like this is a great opportunity to make some of those procedures more lax to make the event more enticing to foreign guests,” Lau said.

Although the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism (MCST) agreed to grant free visas to foreign tourists between October and December, it announced the promotion on 30 September - the day before the festival began. The free visa also applies only to foreign visitors who book a tourist package tour called “Vietnam – Your Destination.”

In fact, late and constantly changing notifications about event schedules and road closures crop up as the most common complaint.

British Council’s Deputy Director Michael Gordon said his staff had told him months before that the city would virtually be shut down during the ten days of festivities and that all roads in and near the center would be blocked off.

They feared that British Council, which offers English courses to children and adults, would have to refund two weeks worth of classes to students.

“In the end, other than a bit of rearranging and minor inconvenience, everything has more or less gone on as usual,” said Gordon. “The biggest problem was actually that the road closures were not when they said they would be.”

But to Gordon, whose organization promotes cultural exchange between the UK and Vietnam, “It’s great that Hanoi is having this celebration,” he said.

“It seems to come at the right time,” Gordon said. “And I think it reflects Vietnam’s pride in modernizing while keeping sure of their traditions.”

Managing ten days of festivities throughout a city of 6.5 million is no small feat. Strangely, it seems that the hype and confusion surrounding whether the city could pull it off or not has affected the city’s residents more so than the events themselves.

“Due to the traffic jams during this period, local residents are hesitant to go out, so our restaurant business is down,” said Earnie Yasuhara, General Manager of Hotel Nikko, a Japanese-owned hotel near Hoan Kiem Lake.

In spite of initial fears, Hanoi seems to have pulled off the festivities so far without major upheaval for the city’s residents. Perhaps the city could have brought in more business had the event been promoted more internationally – which travel agents, hotels and other businesses might have done had information been distributed earlier.

But there’s no doubt that Vietnam is heading fast into the future – and at least the city is charging ahead in style.

As Lau said, “What leads up to something can be chaotic - but what follows can really have a lasting impression.”

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Sarah Gray is a US writer and communications consultant based in Hanoi, where she has lived for three years

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Vietnamese children’s art elicit answers for reconciliation

Tuoi Tre talks to Ed Tick, US Psychotherapists who, with his wife Kate Dahlstedt, runs “Speak Peace: American Voices Respond to Vietnamese Children's Paintings” -- a traveling exhibit to promote US-Vietnam post-war reconciliation by fostering creative forms of cross-cultural communication.

The exhibit debuted at Kent State's Downtown Gallery in Ohio, US on September 25, to mark the 40th anniversary of the 1970 killing by the Ohio National Guards of four unarmed college students who were protesting the US invasion of Cambodia.

It consists of pairing written reactions, in poems or prose, of American children, students and war veterans to 100 war-inspired drawings by Vietnamese children borrowed from the Ho Chi Minh City’s War Remnants Museum.

How do you feel about the US-Vietnam war?

“Many generations of my family have experienced pain and post traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) as a result of the war in Vietnam. Although I did not participate I was among the first anti-war protesters. I was affected by the war and the thought that my country caused so much pain. Hence my life was shaped by the war in Vietnam. I come to Vietnam to help heal the souls of my country’s veterans as well as to manifest my moral responsibility and bring a message of peace to the Vietnamese people. I think that the Vietnam War should teach us how intolerable and horrible war is.

How did you come up with the vision for Speak Peace?

I have been taking Americans and US veterans to Vietnam in reconciliation trips for ten years. Every year we come to the museum and once again witness the pain and horrors of war. Sometimes the visitors break down at the sight of so much pain.

The museum organizes the peace-painting contests for Vietnamese children. Children really want peace in the world. I found that all visitors to the exhibition at Kent University in Ohio are also motivated by a desire for peace.

The museum sent me 100 paintings by Vietnamese children. We uploaded them to the website to reach Americans, especially veterans and elementary school children. We had no idea how the American public would respond, but within few months we received 12,000 letters from both children and adults all over the country.

Are there recurrent themes in the paintings by Vietnamese children?

Seventy percent of the paintings are about peace, which means that the children want peace. Some paintings show how war can affect many generations. In fact, people can be affected by war even if they did not participate. That is why we should end all wars on our planet. One painting by a 5-year child depicts the US dropping bombs on Vietnam, but it’s named Iraq. I understand his message as all wars in the world are the same.

When still alive, Mother Theresa used to say: “I was once asked why I do not participate in anti-war demonstrations. I said that I will never do that, but as soon as you have a pro-peace rally, I'll be there”. Is that what you are saying?

Exactly, I organize activities for peace which heal the pain caused by the war. I want people to understand that we must not only stop the war, but also heal the pain it causes.

I really love a poem named “Why” by students at Miller South School for Visual and Performing arts in Akron, Ohio. They use analogies “Why don’t you substitute the torpedo with a lovely dolphin? Why don’t you turn barbed wire into knitting-needle for shirts? I look at the sky and see bullets and think why can’t they be pretty birds?”

The poem moves me every time I read it. It was written collaboratively by a whole class in response to “Water Color” a painting by Vietnam’s 11 year-old Phung Van Khai.

Someone said that human beings become wiser not thanks to memories gathered from their past but through manifesting their responsibility towards the future. How does this relate to your reconciliation trips to Vietnam?

To be more responsible in shaping the future, we need to have an open heart. Everybody experiences pain, but hides it. I want people to open their heart, to live and experience life’s emotions, even fear.

Nobody like tears

I want to see tears because a smile will come after a tear.

Edward Tick is co-director of the non-profit organization “Soldiers’ Heart”, a project to promote veterans’ successful return by addressing emotional, moral and spiritual needs of veterans, their families and communities. He is also the co-founder of Sanctuary International Friendship Foundation, a nonprofit agency that directs and raises funds for projects to help heal the consequences of war in Vietnam.

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Couples join in 10-10 wedding

HCM CITY — Ten low income couples celebrated a joint wedding ceremony in HCM City yesterday in the belief that the lucky date would look kindly on their futures. An eye-catching parading on xich-los around the city attracted the attention of foreign tourists and city dwellers.

The wedding was held in the spirit of the 1000th anniversary of Ha Noi Capital.

After the public procession around the city along Le Duan, Dong Khoi, Ton Duc Thang and Nguyen Hue, the brides and grooms stopped at the Ho Chi Minh monument in front of the city hall to hold the wedding ceremony and laid wreaths to express their gratitude to the late president.

The weddings were arranged by HCM City's Young Workers Assistance Centre.

Each couple contributed just VND2 million (US$100). Truong Van Thanh, who works for Quang Khoi Company in Thu Duc District, and his partner Truong Thi Lien, of Sai Gon Garment Company No3, said they had been very excited about their wedding for a long time.

According to the centre, the event was held not only to support the workers but also to encourage a civilised and economical lifestyle among young people.

"I am very happy to see my niece married, especially on such a special day. I would like to express my thanks to the city's Youth Union for organising the wedding. I hope the couples will work hard to bring happiness to their family lives," said Dinh Thi Lam, aunt of the bride Pham Thi Hoa.

After the wreath ceremony, the couples returned to their xich-los for a tour of the city's landmarks and some photo opportunities before heading back to the Ho Chi Minh Campaign Museum to chair their wedding party with their relatives and friends. — VNS

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North to South millennium celebrations

The millennium festive mood has spread across the nation. As celebratory kites from across the nation are sent into the Hanoi skies, Ho Chi Minh City pays its own tributes to the capital with several activities celebrating the country’s scholarly and imperial traditions and Hanoi’s timeless beauty.

Hanoi kicked off a kite artistic festival themed “Hanoi – Peaceful Sky” as part of Thang Long-Hanoi’s millennium celebrations at the My Dinh National Stadium on Wednesday.

Fifteen kite clubs from the country’s main regions – North, Central, and South – together with 30 international kite artisans joined the event.

Organized by the Hanoi’s Department of Culture, Sports, and Tourism and the People’s Committee, the festival included kite-crafting demonstrations and both a morning kite fly show and an evening one named “Night kite”.

Dam Sen Cultural Park in Ho Chi Minh City dressed up in imperial glory to host “Toward the capital - Thousand Years of Culture” from October 8-10, one of the southern city’s tributes to Thang Long-Hanoi coinciding with the northern celebrations.

Among the events planned for the festival are several competitions aimed mostly at high-school students and teachers mimicking ancient scholarly exams such as a prefectural exam an a calligraphy examination consisting of the reproduction of ancient characters preceding the current alphabet. The competitions are expected to draw 3,000 students.

The highlight of the event will be the Imperial Boat Race on October 9 organized by Dam Sen Cultural Park and the People’s Committee of District 1. Representatives from District 11’s armed forces will wear era costumes to compete on traditional boats.

HCMC also celebrates the capital’s stunning esthetics with “Visual Angles” photo exhibit taking place at the Women Cultural House of Ho Chi Minh, featuring 100 black and white photographic renditions of the capital’s timeless beauty by members of the HCMC-based Hai Au club for female photographers.

The club members have explored Hanoi’s picturesque streets and nearby villages experiencing local life and photographically recounting it’s daily life, culture and charming essence.

Though quickly becoming a modern metropolis, Hanoi’s Old Quarter, traditional craft villages and ancient pagodas still retain an eternal flavor and nostalgic photographic appeal.

The same exhibition took place at The Temple of Literature in downtown Hanoi in August.

Artist Dao Hoa Nu, head of the club, announced that Hai Au is planning to publish a book containing the club’s best repertoire to date on the occasion of the club’s 20th birthday.

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Saturday, October 9, 2010

Food for thought

Le Nguyen

Local fare: Visitors sample banh cuon, one of the Vietnamese specialties presented at the Hanoian Food Festival at West Lake Water Park. — VNS Photo Le Nguyen

Local fare: Visitors sample banh cuon, one of the Vietnamese specialties presented at the Hanoian Food Festival at West Lake Water Park. — VNS Photo Le Nguyen

HA NOI — We eat to live, not live to eat, said French playwright Moliere, but given cultural and historical value associated with food, it could be argued we also eat to learn.

In the case of Ha Noi, which this week celebrates its 1,000th birthday, the city's rich history is reflected in its culinary traditions and wealth of dishes and delicacies.

For those who are hungry to learn more about Ha Noi, the city is holding a food fair at West Lake Park to mark its millennium.

There are more than 130 stalls featuring mainly Hanoian fare that will be open for the hungry until next Monday.

But foodies will face the perennial problem of how to sample as much as they want with the limited capacity of their inner chambers.

Walking from stall to stall just to have a look, I found a wide range from familiar bun (rice vermicelli) to strange dishes like fried crickets.

I had to be very selective so I would not regret the choices I made.

I first sampled banh duc (plain rice flan). For me, the white pasty pastry served with fried pork mixed with peziza, pepper and nuoc mam (fish sauce) looked a bit different and strange so I thought it was worth a try.

And I was right. The hot pastry, which was scooped into a small bowl, was so soft and fine it easily melted in my mouth.

"Making the pastry is a painstaking process," said chef Tran Van Khanh from the Holiday Ha Noi Hotel.

"It takes two hours of constantly stirring the rice flour at a steady pace in a thick pot on top of a small fire to ensure the pastry doesn't burn and curdle," he added.

Difficult as it is to make, the pastry is no more than a small snack that satiates hunger for only a short while.

"In the past, Hanoians made banh duc for their main meals to save rice in times of hunger," said the chef, "It became very common during the great starvation in 1945."

"It is best when served hot in the mornings during cold seasons," he added.

However, it's not easy for visitors to find the pastry in Ha Noi because it is only available in certain locations, said Nguyen Manh Cuong, 29, who lives on Dong Ngac Street.

The easy-to-eat snack afforded enough energy for me to continue my tour of the stalls.

For the main course, I stopped at a bun cha stall because the smell of the cha, (minced pork grilled) was so enticing.

"You can smell the aroma of the grilled pork from a great distance," said Doan Thi Thu, an octogenarian native of Ha Noi who lives on Bach Mai Street.

"Cooks have to fan the charcoal continuously to create a lot of smoke that consumes the pork," she said, "When it is served, the pork looks tender with melted fat marbled through the meat."

Although a big fan of bun chaû and having eaten it many times, Thu did not want to miss the chance to relive her childhood with bun cha served on a flat winnowing basket covered with la dong (phrynium leaves).

Bun (rice vermicelli), rau song (fresh vegetables), pork and fish sauce which make up bun cha are all staple ingredients of Vietnamese food.

"The fish sauce, after being mixed with vinegar, sugar, garlic and pepper, becomes a perfect sweet and sour accompaniment for bun cha," Thu said.

A cup of tao phoù, a popular Hanoian streetside drink which is made of tofu served with syrup and ice, is perfect for refreshment. It is cool and sweet.

"I hope Ha Noi will continue to serve lots of yummy food," said Australian John Kis, who has lived in Ha Noi for more than a year, noting that Hanoian food is pleasantly spicy and involves many fresh ingredients. — VNS

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Ha Noi basks in 1,000 years of glory

Ngoc Le

Showing the love: Two visitors don red headbands (left), while a young couple show their love of the city by wearing T-shirts printed with

Showing the love: A young couple show their love of the city by wearing T-shirts printed with "I Love Ha Noi".

HA NOI — Any visitor arriving in Ha Noi this past week was likely struck by the festive air, as if Tet (lunar new year) had arrived early.

But even Tet isn't comparable to the festivities this month in terms of scale and jubilation. Tet, after all, comes once a year, but this celebration is a once-in-a-millenium event.

A thousand years ago, King Ly Thai To relocated the capital from a hilly fortress region to the large flat land along the Red River, beginning an era in which the country flourished.

Since then, Ha Noi – then known as Thang Long, or the city of the rising dragon – has been almost continuously the capital of a thriving country.

"I've never seen the streets so beautiful and joyful like this before," said Nguyen Tien Thanh, 42, a resident of Hang Duong Street in the Old Quarter.

The Old Quarter is glorious, with a forest of flags, lanterns and banners along the streets and alleyways, a red glow enlivening an atmosphere already vivid with the array of colourful merchandise, the narrow, ageing homes, the motorbikes spilling onto the sidewalks and the streams of people. Even the cyclos look appealing, decorated with small flags bearing dragons of the Ly dynasty.

while Two visitors don red headbands

... while two visitors don red headbands. — VNA/VNS Photos Ngoc Ha and Thanh Tung

"I cleaned the facade and the balcony of my house to hoist the flag," said Thanh, a member of a four-generation family living together in the same house.

"At night, the streets are swarmed with people in beautiful clothes," he said, noting that the crowds were much bigger than during Tet.

Lots of Ha Noi residents want to show the world how much they love their city by wearing red bands around their heads that read "I love Ha Noi".

Ha Dong District's Nguyen Thi Thoan, 45, is one of them.

"People from Ha Noi naturally love the city," she said. "We have just 10 days to celebrate 1,000 years, so I don't want to miss them."

Hoan Kiem Lake is the focal point of all the festivities, its banks and the Tortoise Tower, The Huc Bridge and Ngoc Son Temple on the bank all colourfully illuminated, making the lake look like a sparkling jewel in the middle of the city.

Droves of revellers stream to the lake while the streets around it are closed to vehicular traffic every evening.

"A thousand years have gone by, and Ha Noi still maintains much of its antique elegance," said Pham Truong Giang, 22, a student of the University of Banking.

Giang was hanging around the lake with a group of classmates who all wore uniforms with slogans about Ha Noi.

"Its history since the reign of King Ly Cong Uan has been marked with heroic struggles against foreign invaders," Giang said. "Relics unearthed at the Thang Long Citadel testify to the talents of the Vietnamese people."

Huynh Kim Khanh, 67, who lives on Thai Ha Street and came to the lake with her children and grandchildren, said she wanted to show them the beauty and history of Ha Noi since her family members had been living abroad.

"The city has changed a lot," Khanh said. "In the past, we didn't have beautiful lighting like that."

Truong Thi Ngat, 55, and her two sisters had to travel all the way from Bac Ninh Province's Yen Phong District to see Ha Noi for themselves during its millennial anniversary.

"We will stay here until the celebrations are over, then we have to go home to harvest rice" she said, adding that this was her first visit to the capital city in 10 years.

Among foreign visitors to the city who were caught up in the festive atmosphere, Tobie Andersen, a Briton who works in Singapore, said he came to Ha Noi to visit his girlfriend's family and to "celebrate the birthday" of the city. He said that he felt a lot of energy in the celebration and that he has learned a lot about the city's history.

Apart from Hoan Kiem Lake, at scattered corners and intersections around the city, outdoor stages have been set up, and songs celebrating Ha Noi resound over loudspeakers in many neighbourhoods.

Thousands of visitors have flocked to Thang Long Citadel, which recently received a World Cultural Heritage designation, and the nearby excavation site to admire the treasured relics of past dynasties.

"I'm so proud of the depth of the nation's history," said Tran Phong, from the Cuu Long (Mekong) Delta city of Can Tho.

The number of southern tourists to the capital has increased by 30 per cent compared to last month, said Tran Phi Nhan, deputy director of Viet Nam Travel, who led around 100 guests from HCM City to the citadel.

"They are eager to come to the capital on this occasion," he said. — VNS

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Prize recognises young artists

Young ambition: She by Le Hoang Bich Phuong, the only female in the final round of the contest.

Young ambition: She by Le Hoang Bich Phuong, the only female in the final round of the contest.

HA NOI — Eight artists are in the running for the Young Talent Prize 2010 award that is being organised by the Cultural Development and Exchange Fund (CDEF).

Members of the public will be able to vote for their favourite entrant by visiting www.cuocthitainang2010.com from October 10 to 31.

The short-listed paintings can be viewed on the website or at the Ha Noi Fine Arts College on October 18.

Organisers said the competition is designed to attract original, unique and creative artists.

The competition is held annually by the CDEF. In past years, the contest has varied its focus to include experimental music, modern dance and performance.

The eight short-listed artists are Dao Anh Viet, Luong Van Trung, Le Tran Anh Tuan, Nguyen Hong Phuong, Pham Tuan Tu, Le Hoang Bich Phuong, Nguyen Xuan Hoang and Nguyen The Hung.

The eventual winner will receive a grant of US$1,000 and be given the opportunity to exhibit his or her work.

This year, 165 artists entered the competition.

The eight finalists were selected for their aesthetic appeal, relevance, context and originality, according to the judges.

The CDEF also said that VND2,000,000 ($100) would be given to the best on-line comment on the winning entrant.

"The general observation of the works, which deal with life and social problems, show that young artists are now examining and reflecting upon not just the abstract but issues that are important to society. They are concerned about their own lives and the position of youth in the contemporary world," said Natasha Kraevski, a member of the judging panel. — VNS

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